this is one big city...

22 million people in the greater metro area. You can feel the sheer tide of people just walking along madero.

When the conquistadors destroyed the Aztec empire in 1521 it is estimated there were 25 million people in the region ruled. By 1610 less than 1 million continued.  The legacy of European disease.

Went to the palace of bel artes,  a brilliant art nouveau art deco and neo class museum that is simply breathtaking. This is  city which is only second to London in terms of the sheer number of museums.

We were blessed to get into revolutionary painters of Mexico 1910 to 1950 which opened 3 days ago

Diego rivera, Frida Kalo of course featured, but many other revolutionary artists who represent the tension of the years running from regressive conservatism and fascism to communist and socialist idealism and vision.

By the time I got to fascism and the coming of the Second World War I will say I didn't find the paintings the most anxiety reducing having watched cnn this morning and seeing Flynn spicer and el president.

from there to Diego museo with a number of disturbing girl with big eyes images.
Again not particularly grounding..

however thru Almeida park to the people's art museum which was stunning.

the soul of Mexico continues to astound me.  How is it possible for such diverse groups of people to create art everywhere all the time.? Clothes, shoes, baskets, clay, masks, rock.

I loved the figure of the devil comforting his small boy when he realizes he is also a devil. Or the tree of life sculpture with mole ingredients and turkeys flanking the Blessed Virgin.

or My favourite in the Muertos death gallery a dog skeleton biting at a skeletal man's leg. In this Vista the skeleton  is clearly yelling get off but he has removed his leg and is holding it up while the dog jumps at it.

Again today c and I are astounded at the total absence of gringos or turistas.  Not even European types who have a bit more stout stuff. I have begun to feel like we are entirely alone.

And that's great. We both speak ok rudimentary spanish, are eager to learn and the people are very warm.

but it's easy to get a bit over stimulated here S c was feeling last night. Just so many people, music blaring from every shop along the pedestrian district and the whistles of the traffic cops trying to halt traffic so the thousands of people can cross.




















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